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Ts an interesting overall outlook for dealing with climbing and other sport injuries as well as a lot of pointers for further research Has a good balance of general info and specifics Pretty good book targeted towards life long climbers This book talks about common climbing injuries how to prevent them and how to recoverA point made throughout this book is that ou really should go see at least one specialist if The Big Book of Losers: Pathetic but True Tales of the World's Most Titanic Failures! (Factoid Books) you thinkou are suffering from injury Many doctors are not familiar with climbing injuries and as a result it can be useful to see than one You should also take responsibility for The Thing About Alice your healing by reading as much as possible and try to become an expert on the injuryMacLeod is generally a proponent of active recovery Ifou end up taking off months for an injury Un lieu incertain you often come back and try to climb the same volume or difficulty too uickly which results in injuries By staying activeou reduce our backslide and can actually help injuries heal better He admits this can be a hard process as their is pressure to perform The book is split into a few sections There are chapters on each major area of injury hands elbow lower body shoulder along with general prevention and diagnoses sections There is even a short chapter on ounger climbers and the different prevention and diagnoses sections There is even a short chapter on ounger climbers and the different of problems they can faceI underlined and marked so many passages in this book My copy is full of bookmarks There are so marked so many passages in this book My copy is full of bookmarks There are so sections to go back and reread and absorb I d recommend this book to any climber. The existing climbing literature base You will learn how our current climbing habits are already causing Edge of Chaos Sons of Chaos MC your future injuries and whatou can do to change that If Vol au-dessus d'un nid de coucou you are already injured it will preventou from prolonging The Summer I Wasn't Me your injury with the wrong climbing habits and rehabilitation choices You will learn how the ingredients of prevention and good recovery come from wildly different sources and howou have been using only a fraction of them Fully referenced throughout the practical advice for diagnosis rehabilitation and prevention of climbing injuries is drawn from up to date peer reviewed sports medicine research. .

Which I d have found uite useful Still this is an essential book for climber with injuries but even for climbers without injuries This is an incredibly well researched and nicely compiled collection of reference material and information on climbing injuries prevention and treatment Super informative and well written Highly recommend for any serious climber Excellent book for people planning to take climbing seriously Helps Khaiye Aur Vajan Ghataiye you keep on top ofour body and interpret the signals its sending ou Clearly written with lots of practical advice Unlike doctors doesn t include the advice maybe try a different sport To tape or not to tape that is the uestion Placebo effect cause it looks sick What the hell is h taping Also found out the little ball of liuid near my a1 pulley is called tenosynovitis which basically is an irritation of the flexor tendon sheath that leads to an overproduction of synovial fluid It s sometimes that leads to an overproduction of synovial fluid It s sometimes Kinda confused why the synovial fluid is so low given that I had previously torn my A2 pulley so there would be little contact between the associated scar tissue and the lower flexor tendon region Maybe they rub against each other while crimpingAlso gotta make sure to minimize lateral rotation of the fingers while crimping or something will pop again Does that mean less moonboarding Damn More icing and fingers while crimping or something will pop again Does that mean less moonboarding Damn More icing and bucket exercises in the meantime The writing is entertaining especially given the subject matter which makes reading through it a breeze It presen. Stay healthy as a climber and no single source of advice to cover all of these The book draws together both the cutting edge of peer reviewed sports medicine research and the subtle concepts of changing our climbing habits and routine to prevent and successfully recover from injuries It is a handbook on how to take care of ourself as a lifelong climbing athlete By spanning the fields of climbing coaching physiotherapy sports medicine and behavioural science it goes beyond the general advice on treating symptoms offered by sports medicine textbooks and into much detail on techniue and habits specific to climbing than. ,
Absolutely essential for all serious climbers even if ou haven t been injured etCovers all the main injury zones of Elbows Fingers and Shoulders along with the causes of injury what "to do to fix it how to avoid it in the futureA fair bit of " do to fix it and to avoid it in the futureA fair bit of information in this book is available online but I find a lot of it isn t clear or can be contraindicatory What Dave MacLeod has achieved is condensing it all in one place and effectively presenting the facts in a readable way using his background in Sports Science and the latest research availableThe book might seem a bit pricey but in the context of the price of not using climbing wall subscriptions or cancelled trips away due to injury it is certainly worth it Comprehensive and working out pretty well so far A diamond in the rough If I d have to define this book in a wood it d be essential Dave MacLeod provides a really useful and straightforward approach to injuries from a western medicine pespective but getting rid of the symptomatic based approach to physical problems so freuently seen in western countries However he acknowledges the work of health related professinals and doesn t present himself as some expert in injuries rather as an experienced athlete with useful advices for injury prevention and awareness what makes this book so valuableI don t give it 5 because besides going really into detail for common climber injuries it doesn t explore or give a straightforward Rehab Methodology For This methodology for this injuries. As Wolfgang Gullich said “getting strong is easy getting strong without getting injured is hard” Sooner or later nearly all climbers get injured and it will be injuries that ultimately dictate how far ou get in climbing if ou let them Unfortunately the data shows it takes over a decade just to get small proportions of medical research adopted in regular practice Sourcing reliable and up to date advice on preventing and treating finger elbow shoulder and other climbing injuries is challenging to say the least You need to be the expert because there are so many strands of knowledge and practice to pull together to.

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